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Stringing Machine Educator

Basic nuts and bolts knowledge is essential if you are buying a stringing machine for the first time, and don't even consider buying a machine without careful research first. Remember, whether your purchase is aimed at starting up a small restringing business or solely for personal use, you will be either making money or saving money - both ways your stringing machine will end up paying for itself! With this in mind it makes little sense to reach for the cheapest machine you can find, as you will only get what you pay for. The market if full of poorly built, imitation machines and telling the difference between a really great machine and one that really isn't, is not easy. Keep reading, and feel free to email me for expert advice: strings@cordatec.com

Stringing Machines

Principally, there are three types of stringing machines: dropweight machines, lockout machines (also known as spring tension machines) and electronic machines. Each type of machine comes with an array of mechanism options too, which include: different clamping mechanisms - gripper mechanisms - and mounting systems.

Prices between the different models of machines varies and is directly linked to build-quality and ease of use. How much you need to pay also depends on purpose – whether you intend stringing as a business or for your own personal use.

A dropweight machine is the cheapest option, followed by a lock out machine, with electronic being the most expensive.

Choosing a machine can be deceptive, as so many look the same and offer similar features, while prices vary. Build-quality is key when buying a stringing machine – not appearances or features. Certain key parts of a stringing machine incur repetitive use and it is vital such components are made from quality materials. A swivel clamp base for example is locked and unlocked 19 times during a typical restring. Those swivel clamp bases need to be good quality or they will quickly wear out.

We are so confident in the Exthree brand you can return any model within 10 days of purchase if you are dissatisfied – we are the only supplier who offer this. If you return the machine you will have to pay the admin, delivery and return carriage charges, which are currently £36.

Dropweight Machines

Dropweight machines are ideal for players intending to string their own rackets or for low volume business use. They are an ideal option for string-breaking-juniors who have crossed the threshold whereby it is no longer cost effective to string via a third party.

A dropweight stringing machine uses a metal pole and a weight to tension the string. The weight is moved along the pole - which has a weight measurement scale - and fixed at the desired location. The string is then placed in a gripper at the base of the pole and the pole lowered, under its own weight, to a horizontal position (most machines have two markers to aid this process). Unless a perfect horizontal is achieved the tension will not be accurate. Users of dropweight machines, over time, develop the skill of pulling the string and lowering the pole into the horizontal position at the first attempt; if not the process has to be repeated.

Some dropweight machines are fitted with a ratchet mechanism, a highly desirable device that avoids the stringer having to repeat the lowering procedure. A feature that costs a little more but is well worth it.

The main advantage of dropweight machines is their low cost and low maintenance.


Lock-out machines (also known as spring tension machines)

These machines are easy to use, accurate and fast. They are much quicker and easier to use than dropweight machines and more suited to the busy club stringer and owners of pro shops.

Lock out machines work via a hand-operated crank to tension the string. The required tension is set via a spring-operated dial located next to the tension head. The string is then placed in a gripper and pulled to tension by turning the hand operated crank. Once the desired tension is reached a locking lever is tripped to engage a brake - the tensioned string is thereby held ready for clamping.

Lock out machines remain the favourite for most professional stringers as a good one will last a lifetime. Maintenance is simple, inexpensive and can usually be carried out by the stringer himself.
 


Electronic Machines

An electronic machine relies on an electric motor to tension the string. The electric motor drives a string gripper that pulls and tensions the string.

The advantage of electronic machines is that once the reference tension is reached the motor continues to pull and maintain that tension until the string is clamped. Consequently, rackets strung on electric machines tend to feel a little tighter than rackets strung on manual machines. It is important to note that some motors are faster than others, which affects the overall speed that a racket can be strung.
 

Electronic machines are easy to use and provide pinpoint accuracy. The downside is repairs can work out expensive and you always have to be near a power point.



Owning your own stringing machine

For the personal stringer owning your own machine has two main advantages. Firstly, it much cheaper to string your own racquets than paying someone else to string them. Secondly, you will now have the freedom to experiment between different strings, hybrid combinations and tensions. By trial and error you will be able to seek out the ideal string for your demands, and string your racquets at the exact tension that best suits your game - without spending a fortune.


Machine Parts and Frequently asked Questions


What are the different types of clamping system?

Clamps are a major feature of the stringing process, and careful thought is required in choosing between fixed or flying clamps. Fixed clamps come in various forms; swivel clamps and glide bars.

Flying Clamps

Flying clamps work by holding two strings at a once. Unlike the other systems they are not attached to the machine; hence the name flying clamps. Flying clamps are the least expensive of all the clamping mechanisms and in most situations work well. Their one constraint is in stringing fan patterned racquets (such as the Head S6), where the strings on certain sections of the string job are so far apart they have to be manually pinched together to fit inside the clamp jaws. 

Another point worth noting is that flying clamps can provide backup
to fixed clamp systems should they fail. Most manual lock-out and electronic machines can be operated by entirely by flying clamps if needs be.

Metal or plastic flying clamps?

Plastic clamps are cheaper than metal clamps but have a tendency to pop open when stringing at high tensions (65lbs +).
Metal clamps are a little more expensive, but more durable and worth the extra investment. Some metal clamps are equipped with a quick release lever - a feature that costs a little more but is highly desirable.

Fixed Swivel Clamps

Fixed clamps are attached to the machine and come in two forms: glide clamps and swivel clamps. Swivel clamps move along tracks cut into the turntable and can rotate in any direction. There are two types of swivel clamps:

  • Single action swivel clamps have just one lever to clamp the string and lock the swivel base
  • Dual action swivel clamps have one lever to clamp the string and another to lock the swivel base.
  • Single action swivel are faster than dual action clamps but the brake assembly is prone to wearing out quickly –
    a problem manufacturers have never satisfactorily resolved. Dual action clamps tend to be more durable and
    reliable than single action clamps.

Spring action levers versus manual.

An important consideration with dual action clamps is that the lever that locks the base can be either spring action or manual.

  • Manual levers require a full half turn (180 degrees) and a certain degree of muscle to lock the swivel base.
  • Spring action levers lock & unlock effortlessly with a just a one-eighth turn.

Verdict: Both types are equally effective but spring action levers are much quicker and easier to use.

Some machines such as the EX808 Infinity Plus utilise a system of one flying clamp and one fixed central swivel clamp. The benefit of these machines is that half the mains and all the crosses can be completed using the swivel clamp.

Glide clamps

Glide clamps move linearly along bars and have a single action locking system (one lever to both lock the base and close the clamp). For stringing rackets with conventional stringing patterns glide bars are the quickest systems available. The disadvantage of glide bars is their inability to cope with fan-patterned rackets. In this situation flying clamps can be used to substitute the glide bars; which is not ideal as flying clamps have constraints working with fan-patterns too. The single action locking system is fast but, as with single action swivel clamps, wears out quickly.

Which clamping system is the quickest?

Fixed clamps that move along glide bars are the quickest. Once popular this system is more than twenty years old and predates advances in racket evolution. Due to this shortcoming, and despite their speed, glide bar machines have declined in popularity. Recent innovations may make them popular again soon.

What are the different types of string grippers?

There are two types of string grippers: a linear ball bearing gripper, which self grips when the string is pulled; and a cam gripper (a wheel with a split). Some stringers prefer the linear gripper because, if required, the string can be gripped and pulled in a one handed operation. Otherwise there is little difference.

Which kind of mounting system is best?

Today’s ultra light, fragile racket frames come under considerable strain during the re-stringing process, making good support paramount.

There are two types of mounting system; the suspension system and the fixed down system.
A fixed down mounting system is where the racket is pinned down to the machine at the head and throat. A suspension mounting system is a clever concept that does not require the racket to be pinned onto the machine but instead relies on the side supports and firmly adjusted main pins to hold the racket in place.

What is meant by 2-point, 4-point and 6-point support?

Typically, there are three types of support systems available: Two point, four point, and six point support. The less support points there are the more workspace the stringer has. The more support points there are the more securely held in place the racket will be. The downside of a two-point support system is the ‘pinning down’ pressure needed to prevent the racket sliding around during restringing.

What are the different side supports?

Basically, there are five different types of side supports:

  • V shaped, support at two points, top and bottom edge;
  • Half V shaped, support at one point but on the top edge of the frame.
  • K shaped for tennis squash and badminton.
  • L shaped – similar in function to half V.
  • Plastic stoppers, support just at one point,

Avoid plastic stoppers at all costs! All other shaped supports work fine. K supports are recommended for those looking to string badminton rackets.

What stringing tools do I need?

A pair of diagonal cutters, an awl and a pair of needle nose pliers are mandatory. Other tools and accessories can be purchased to meet every eventuality and stringers often acquire these over time.

On a drop weight machine what is a ratchet system?

A ratchet mechanism is a very useful device on a drop weight machine, as it avoids the need to repeat the tensioning procedure should the pole not come to rest in a perfect horizontal line. However, the ratchet only works one way so the problem is only partially solved.

Table-top versus floor standing?

Machines with a stand offer the perfect working height and allow the stringer freedom to walk around the restring. Table-top machines work equally as well provided that the chosen work surface offers a good working height and the turntable can rotate freely through 360 degrees.

Can I upgrade my stringing machine?

Depending on which brand of machine you buy will depend on what upgrades, if any, you can make. Many Exthree machines can be upgraded in the following way;

  • Dropweight machines using flying clamps can have a central swivel clamp attached to the turntable; this is a worthwhile upgrade facilitating faster and easier stringing.
  • Manual swivel clamps can often be upgraded to spring-action swivel clamps.
  • Table-top machines can be converted to a floor standing version.

Exchanging tension mechanisms is not usually an option so it is crucial you choose the appropriate mechanism for your requirements from the outset.

Do different types of machines string equal tensions?

Tension is not a straightforward issue when it comes to stringing machines, a racket strung at 60lbs on one machine may feel like 55lbs on another. Such differences can usually be explained.

  • Rackets strung on Electronic machines will feel tighter than rackets strung on dropweight and lock out machines.
  • Dropweight machines usually string up a little tighter than lock out machines.
  • Machines between different manufacturers also vary.
  • Machine operators string differently to each other which can produce noticeable differences in tension.

Consistency is the key - a good machine, well operated, will produce unfailing accuracy in relation to the reference tension on every occasion.

How can I check the accuracy of my machine?

A calibrator, costing around £25, can be used to check the accuracy of a machine. This is a spring-loaded mechanism that measures the pull of the string against the machine. Machines should be regularly tested as a matter of course.
Dropweight machines do not need calibrating.

Where are stringing machines made?

Taiwan, Germany, Japan and Holland are typical producers. Taiwan was the first country to mass-produce stringing machines and consequently hold a lot of the industry's expertise. In recent years other countries have entered the market producing copycat machines based on Taiwanese designs, with varying success. One manufacturer has a clever strategy of imitating well known machines and mass producing cheap copies. It is a strategy that works well, as this manufacturer producers more stringing machines than anyone else. However, copying appearances is one thing, copying quality on a budget quite another. and this manufacturer's machines are to be steered away from if you want an unfailing product that will last a lifetime.

Certain component parts for all brands of machines are often made in one place at the most economical source. Virtually all electric motors, for example, are made in Taiwan and then purchased by foreign manufacturers. The clamps for some machines are made in Hungary.

So Major Brands don’t make their own machines?

Major brand names concentrate more on marketing than manufacture, negotiating with Taiwanese manufacturers for exclusive arrangements over design features - occasionally commissioning manufacturers to produce a unique innovation for their brand.

So which machine should I buy?

This depends on your budget, your requirements, and how easy you want stringing to be. There is no point spending the earth if you are only stringing for yourself. If you own a pro shop or are a career minded coach then invest in a good machine, as it will quickly pay for itself.

What should I look for when buying a machine?

  • First of all assess your needs.

  • Avoid cheap machines with poor plastic fittings.

  • Avoid the very light, portable machines that will move around during stringing.

  • The clamping system is very important, particularly with swivel clamps - make sure they are well made, move smoothly along their tracks and don’t budge once the base is locked. The brake assembly is critical!

  • Turntable tracks must be; level, smooth and well machined. There is nothing worse than swivel clamps that catch and stick as they move along their tracks. It’s irritating and will slow you up!

  • If you are buying a floor standing machine make sure the stand is height adjustable -some aren’t.

  • Remember, you’ll pretty much get what you pay for and it’s engineering that counts not features!

Electronic versus Lock out?

The only non-manual function electronic machines offer is the tensioning mechanism - otherwise the procedure for stringing a racket is identical to that of a lock out machine. Sophisticated electronic machines can offer additional features such as pre-stretch buttons and different tension-pulling speeds. But these features come at a price. Basically, it comes down to how much you value the extra features and the ‘constant pull’ mechanism.

Which is faster? Electronic or Lock out machines?

Most operators say lock outs. A fast pair of hands is still quicker than any motor.

What string stocks should I have?

A basic string for juniors and average club players (about £20-30 for a 200m reel)
A tournament string for league players (approx. £45-60 for 200m)
A few sets of Kevlar for frequent string breakers.
A few sets of top quality multi-filament strings to offer supreme playability.

How easy is it to string a tennis racket?

With the help of the manual and some practice it takes little time to become an accomplished stringer.

How long does it take to string a racket?

Between 30-40 minutes is the norm, but it depends on the type of machine and the type of racket to be strung; some frames are more time consuming and fiddly than others. An adept stringer can rattle out a string job in 20 minutes! But going for speed can be irritating if you run into snags; a more relaxed approach, with perhaps the radio on, is recommended.

Still have questions about stringing machines?           Contact us:strings@cordatec.com

We will endeavour to answer all your questions.


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