Stringing Machine Educator
Basic nuts and bolts knowledge
is essential if you are
buying a stringing machine for the first time, and don't even
consider buying a machine without careful research first. Remember,
whether your purchase is aimed at starting up a small
restringing
business
or solely for personal use,
you will be
either
making money or
saving money - both ways your stringing machine
will end up paying for itself! With this in mind it makes little
sense to reach for the cheapest machine you can find, as you will
only get what you pay for. The market if full of poorly
built, imitation machines and telling the difference between a really great machine and one
that really isn't, is not easy. Keep reading, and feel free to
email me for expert advice:
strings@cordatec.com
Stringing Machines
Principally, there are
three types of stringing machines:
dropweight machines, lockout machines (also known as spring tension
machines) and electronic machines. Each type of
machine comes with an array of mechanism options too, which include:
different clamping mechanisms - gripper mechanisms
- and mounting systems.
Prices between
the different models of
machines varies and
is directly
linked to build-quality and ease of use. How much you need to pay
also depends on purpose – whether you intend stringing as
a business or for your own personal use.
A dropweight machine is the cheapest option, followed by
a lock out
machine, with electronic being the most expensive.
Choosing a machine
can be deceptive, as so many look the same
and offer similar features, while prices
vary. Build-quality
is key when buying a stringing machine – not appearances or
features. Certain key parts of a stringing machine incur repetitive
use and it is vital such components are made from quality materials.
A swivel clamp base for example is locked and unlocked 19 times
during a typical restring. Those swivel clamp bases need to be good
quality or
they will quickly wear out.
We are so confident in the Exthree brand you can return any model
within 10 days of purchase if you are dissatisfied – we are
the only supplier who offer this. If you return
the machine you will have to pay the admin, delivery and return
carriage charges, which are currently £36.
Dropweight Machines
Dropweight machines are ideal for players intending to string their
own rackets or for low volume business use. They are an ideal
option
for string-breaking-juniors
who have crossed the threshold
whereby it is no longer cost effective to string via a third
party.

A dropweight stringing machine uses a metal pole and a weight to
tension the string. The weight is moved along the pole - which has
a weight measurement scale - and fixed at the desired location.
The string is then placed in a gripper at the base of the pole and
the pole lowered, under its own weight, to a horizontal position
(most machines have two markers to aid this process). Unless a perfect
horizontal is achieved the tension will not be accurate. Users of
dropweight machines, over time, develop the skill
of pulling the
string and lowering the pole into the horizontal position at the
first attempt; if not the process has to be repeated.
Some dropweight machines are fitted with a ratchet mechanism, a
highly desirable device that avoids the stringer having to repeat
the lowering procedure.
A feature that costs a little more but is well
worth it.
The main advantage of dropweight machines is their low cost and
low maintenance.
Lock-out
machines (also known as spring
tension machines)
These machines are easy
to use, accurate and fast. They are much quicker and easier to use
than dropweight machines and more suited to the
busy club stringer
and owners of pro shops.

Lock out machines work
via a hand-operated crank to tension the string. The required
tension is set via a spring-operated
dial located next to the tension head. The string is then placed
in a gripper and pulled to tension by turning the hand operated
crank. Once the desired tension is reached a
locking lever is tripped
to engage a brake - the tensioned
string is thereby held
ready for clamping.
Lock out machines remain the favourite for most professional stringers
as a good one will last a lifetime. Maintenance is simple, inexpensive
and can usually be carried out by the stringer himself.
Electronic Machines
An electronic machine relies on an electric motor to tension the
string. The electric motor drives a string gripper that pulls and
tensions the string.

The advantage of electronic machines is that
once the reference tension is reached the motor continues to pull
and maintain that tension until the string is clamped. Consequently,
rackets strung on electric machines tend to feel a little tighter
than rackets strung on manual machines. It is important to note
that some motors are faster than others, which affects the overall
speed that a racket can be strung.
Electronic machines are easy to use and provide pinpoint accuracy.
The downside is repairs can work out expensive and you always have
to be near a power point.
Owning your own stringing machine
For the personal
stringer owning your own machine has two main advantages. Firstly,
it much cheaper to string your own racquets than paying someone else to
string them. Secondly, you will now have the freedom to experiment
between different strings, hybrid combinations and tensions. By
trial and error you will be able to seek out the ideal string for
your demands, and string your racquets at the exact tension that best suits your game - without spending
a fortune.
Machine Parts and Frequently asked Questions
What are the different types of clamping
system?
Clamps are a major feature of the stringing process, and careful
thought is required in choosing between fixed or flying clamps.
Fixed clamps come in various forms; swivel clamps and glide bars.
Flying Clamps
Flying clamps work by holding
two strings at a once.
Unlike
the other systems they are not attached to the machine;
hence the name flying clamps.
Flying clamps are
the least expensive of
all the clamping mechanisms and
in most
situations work well. Their one constraint is in
stringing fan patterned racquets (such as the Head S6), where the strings
on certain sections of the string job are so far apart they have to be
manually pinched together to fit inside the clamp jaws.
Another point worth noting is that flying clamps can provide backup to fixed clamp systems should they fail.
Most manual lock-out and electronic machines can be operated by
entirely by flying clamps if needs be.
Metal or plastic flying clamps?
Plastic clamps
are cheaper than metal clamps but have a tendency
to pop open when stringing at high tensions (65lbs +).
Metal clamps are a little more expensive, but more
durable and worth the extra investment. Some metal clamps are equipped with a quick release lever
- a feature that costs a little more but is highly desirable.
Fixed Swivel Clamps
Fixed clamps are attached to the machine and come in two forms:
glide clamps and swivel clamps. Swivel clamps move
along tracks cut into the turntable and can rotate in any direction.
There are two types of swivel clamps:
- Single action swivel clamps have just one
lever to clamp the string and lock the swivel base
- Dual action swivel clamps have one lever to
clamp the string and another to lock the swivel base.
- Single action swivel are faster than dual action clamps but
the brake assembly is prone to wearing out quickly –
a problem manufacturers have never satisfactorily resolved. Dual
action clamps tend to be more durable and
reliable than single action clamps.
Spring action levers versus manual.
An important consideration with dual action clamps is that the
lever that locks the base can be either spring action or
manual.
- Manual levers require a full half turn (180
degrees)
and a certain degree of muscle to lock the swivel base.
- Spring action levers lock & unlock effortlessly
with a just a one-eighth turn.
Verdict: Both types are equally effective but spring action levers are
much quicker and easier to use.
Some machines such as the EX808 Infinity Plus utilise a system
of one flying clamp and one fixed central swivel clamp. The benefit
of these machines is that half the mains and all the crosses can
be completed using the swivel clamp.
Glide clamps
Glide clamps move linearly along bars and have a single action
locking system (one lever to both lock the base and close the clamp).
For stringing rackets with conventional stringing patterns glide
bars are the quickest systems available. The disadvantage of glide
bars is their inability to cope with fan-patterned rackets.
In this situation flying clamps can be used to substitute the glide
bars; which
is not ideal as flying clamps have
constraints working with fan-patterns
too. The single action
locking system is fast but, as with single action swivel clamps,
wears out quickly.
Which clamping system is the quickest?
Fixed clamps that move along glide bars are the quickest. Once
popular this system is more than twenty years old and predates advances
in racket evolution. Due to this shortcoming, and despite their
speed, glide bar machines have declined in popularity. Recent innovations
may make them popular again soon.
What are the different types of string grippers?
There are two types of string grippers: a linear ball bearing gripper,
which self grips when the string is pulled; and a cam gripper (a
wheel with a split). Some stringers prefer the linear gripper because,
if required, the string can be gripped and pulled in a one handed
operation. Otherwise there is little difference.
Which kind of mounting system is best?
Today’s ultra light, fragile racket frames come under considerable
strain during the re-stringing process, making good support paramount.
There are two types of mounting system; the suspension system
and the fixed down system.
A fixed down mounting system is where the racket
is pinned down to the machine at the head and throat. A suspension
mounting system is a clever concept that does not require
the racket to be pinned onto the machine but instead relies on the
side supports and firmly adjusted main pins to hold the racket in
place.
What is meant by 2-point, 4-point and 6-point
support?
Typically, there are three types of support systems available:
Two point, four point, and six point support. The less support points
there are the more workspace the stringer has. The more support
points there are the more securely held in place the racket will
be. The downside of a two-point support
system is the ‘pinning
down’ pressure needed to prevent the racket sliding around
during restringing.
What are the different side supports?
Basically, there are five different types of side supports:
- V shaped, support at two points, top and bottom edge;
- Half V shaped, support at one point but on the top edge of
the frame.
- K shaped for tennis squash and badminton.
- L shaped – similar in function to half V.
- Plastic stoppers, support just at one point,
Avoid plastic stoppers at all costs! All other shaped supports
work fine. K supports are recommended for those looking to string
badminton rackets.
What stringing tools do I need?
A pair of diagonal cutters, an awl and a pair of needle nose pliers
are mandatory.
Other tools and accessories can be purchased to meet every eventuality
and stringers often acquire these over time.
On a drop weight machine what is a ratchet
system?
A ratchet mechanism is a very useful device on a drop weight machine,
as it avoids the need to repeat the tensioning procedure
should the
pole not come to rest in a perfect horizontal
line. However, the
ratchet only works one way so the problem is only partially solved.
Table-top versus floor standing?
Machines with a stand offer the perfect working height
and allow the stringer freedom to walk around the restring. Table-top
machines work equally as well provided that the chosen work surface
offers a good working height and the turntable can rotate freely
through 360 degrees.
Can I upgrade my stringing machine?
Depending on which brand of machine you buy will depend on what
upgrades, if any, you can make. Many Exthree machines can be upgraded
in the following way;
- Dropweight machines using flying clamps can have a central swivel
clamp attached to the turntable; this is a worthwhile upgrade
facilitating faster and easier stringing.
- Manual swivel clamps can often be upgraded to spring-action
swivel clamps.
- Table-top machines can be converted to a floor standing version.
Exchanging tension mechanisms is not usually an option so it is
crucial you choose the appropriate mechanism for your requirements
from the outset.
Do different types of machines string equal
tensions?
Tension is not a straightforward issue when it comes to stringing
machines, a racket strung at 60lbs on one machine may feel like
55lbs on another. Such differences can usually be explained.
- Rackets strung on Electronic machines will feel tighter than
rackets strung on dropweight and lock out machines.
- Dropweight machines usually string up a little tighter than
lock out machines.
- Machines between different manufacturers also vary.
- Machine operators string differently to each other which can
produce noticeable differences in tension.
Consistency is the key
- a good machine, well operated, will produce
unfailing accuracy in relation to the reference tension on every
occasion.
How can I check the accuracy of my machine?
A calibrator, costing around £25, can be used to check the
accuracy of a machine. This is a spring-loaded mechanism that measures
the pull of the string against the machine. Machines should be regularly
tested as a matter of course.
Dropweight machines do not need calibrating.
Where are stringing machines made?
Taiwan, Germany,
Japan and Holland are typical producers.
Taiwan was the first country to mass-produce stringing machines
and consequently hold a lot of the industry's expertise. In recent
years other countries have entered the market producing copycat
machines based on Taiwanese designs, with varying success.
One manufacturer has a clever strategy of imitating well known
machines and mass producing cheap copies. It is a strategy that
works well, as this manufacturer producers more stringing machines
than anyone else. However, copying appearances is one thing, copying
quality on a budget quite another. and this manufacturer's machines
are to be steered away from if you want an unfailing product that
will last a lifetime.
Certain component parts for all brands of machines are often made
in one place at the most economical source. Virtually all electric
motors, for example, are made in Taiwan and then purchased by foreign
manufacturers. The clamps for some machines are made in Hungary.
So Major Brands don’t make their own
machines?
Major brand names concentrate more on marketing than manufacture,
negotiating with Taiwanese manufacturers for exclusive arrangements
over design features - occasionally commissioning manufacturers
to produce a unique innovation for their brand.
So which machine should I buy?
This depends on your budget, your requirements,
and how easy you want stringing to be. There is no point spending
the earth if you are
only stringing for yourself. If you own a pro
shop or are a career
minded coach then invest in a good machine, as it will quickly pay
for itself.
What should I look for when buying a machine?
-
First of all assess your needs.
-
Avoid cheap machines with poor plastic fittings.
-
Avoid the very light, portable machines that will move around during
stringing.
-
The clamping system is very important, particularly with swivel
clamps - make sure they are well made, move smoothly along their
tracks and don’t budge once the base is locked. The brake
assembly is critical!
-
Turntable tracks must be; level, smooth and well machined. There
is nothing worse than swivel clamps that catch and stick as they
move along their tracks. It’s irritating and will slow you
up!
-
If you are buying a floor standing machine make sure the stand
is height adjustable -some aren’t.
-
Remember, you’ll pretty much get what you pay for and it’s
engineering that counts not features!
Electronic versus Lock out?
The only non-manual function electronic machines offer is the tensioning
mechanism - otherwise the procedure for stringing a racket is identical
to that of a lock out machine. Sophisticated electronic machines
can offer additional features such as pre-stretch buttons and different
tension-pulling speeds. But these features come at a price. Basically,
it comes down to how much you value the extra features and the ‘constant
pull’ mechanism.
Which is faster? Electronic or Lock out machines?
Most operators say lock outs. A fast pair of hands is still quicker
than any motor.
What string stocks should I have?
A basic string for juniors and average club players (about £20-30
for a 200m reel)
A tournament string for league players (approx. £45-60 for
200m)
A few sets of Kevlar for frequent string breakers.
A few sets of top quality multi-filament strings to offer supreme
playability.
How easy is it to string a tennis racket?
With the help of the manual and some practice it takes little time
to become an accomplished stringer.
How long does it take to string a racket?
Between 30-40 minutes is the norm, but it depends on the type of
machine and the type of racket to be strung; some frames are more
time consuming and fiddly than others.
An adept stringer can rattle out a string job in 20 minutes! But
going for speed can be irritating if you run into snags; a more
relaxed approach, with perhaps the radio on, is recommended.
Still
have questions about stringing machines?
Contact us:strings@cordatec.com
We will endeavour to answer all your questions.
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